Dazzle Beaded Earring Kit Info Sheet

Thank you for purchasing the Dazzle Beaded Earring Kit! Scroll down to read important information and access the video tutorial.

If at any point you get stuck or have questions, please email me at jaime@thebeadmix.com.

Key Steps & Time

The main technique used to make these earrings is brick stitch. While the tutorial does walk you through the project step-by-step, it is helpful to have some experience with brick stitch and bead weaving with seed beads in general. The key steps you will need to perform include:

Tying the thread onto the frame

Threading a beading needle

Attaching beads to a frame

Weaving beads with brick stitch

Attaching a thread guard

Finishing thread ends (weaving thread through beads and tying knots)

Attaching an ear wire

Depending on your experience level, each earring will take about 1 - 2 hours to make. Therefore, both earrings will take 2 - 4 hours. This is just an estimate and doesn’t account for breaks, tangles, or redos. If you’re brand new to bead weaving, expect to spend at least 4 hours to complete this project.

Materials & Supplies

Your kit comes with the following materials:

Beading Needles

There are two size 12 beading needles. You only need one, but there’s an extra provided just in case.

FireLine Beading Thread

There are 4 pre-cut pieces. You will only need two. One for each earring. But I provided extra in case you get a tangle and need to cut the thread.

Beads

Czech fire-polished beads (one or two colors depending on the color of your kit). If your kit has two colors of fire-polished beads, you can use either color for the inner row and outer edging row.

Miyuki delica beads (one color)

Please note that both types of beads are packaged in one bag. This is intentional to save a bit of plastic. But the beads are easily distinguishable from each other. You can pick the beads you need as you go. You only need to sort them if you'd like to.

Findings

Rings (gold or silver) - used to attach the beads to make a circular design. This is silver or gold-plated base metal (lead and nickel-free).

Sterling silver or 14K gold-filled ear wires - findings needed to wear the earrings in your ears. Hypoallergenic ear nuts are also provided for extra security when wearing your earrings.

Sterling silver or 14K gold-filled thread guards - the thread guard allows you to attach the beaded design to the ear wire.

Reusable Gift Box

The kit comes in a box that can be used to store the materials while you’re working. Once you’ve finished making the earrings, you can use the box to gift the earrings.

Materials you will need to supply:

Scissors of Thread Cutters

Narrow Chain Nose Pliers

To open and close the ear wire loops and adjust the width of the thread guard.

Soft Surface or Beading Mat (OPTIONAL)

This is used to lay out your beads so they don’t roll or stick. This makes it easier to pick up the beads with the needle.

Coffee or Tea (OPTIONAL)

This kit is designed to offer a rewarding and relaxing experience. So grab a cup of your favorite beverage and enjoy! Try not to let mistakes get to you. They do happen, even to the most experienced beaders. If you get stuck, you’re not alone! Email me at jaime@thebeadmix.com 🙂

Important Information

The following information complements the tutorial and will provide some additional context. Please read before watching the tutorial. It might not all make sense at first, but you’ll be able to recall the info as you’re watching the tutorial.

GAPS BETWEEN THE DELICA BEADS

There will be gaps between the delica beads. And the gaps will get larger as you move outward from the center. In the photo below, you can see that the gaps between the beads closer to the ring are much tighter than the gaps further from the ring.

This is normal and to be expected. It’s part of the design! So when I talk about using your fingers to adjust the gaps in the tutorial, I am referring to the practice of spacing out the beads so the gaps are more uniform, not getting rid of the gaps.

TENSION

The first step is adding the inner row of fire-polished beads. For this step, I pull the thread tight after adding each bead. However, for all other rows, I use medium tension. This means I pull the beads tight enough to ensure they're secure and the thread between the beads isn’t loose. I do NOT pull as tight as I can.

In the tutorial, when discussing tension, I say to make sure there are no gaps. This may be confusing because, as I just mentioned, there will be gaps between the beads. But when it comes to tension, I am referring to gaps in the thread. Essentially, ensure the thread between the beads isn’t loose, but avoid pulling it too tight. A tiny bit of slack will produce better results. If you pull too tightly, the rows of beads may start to curl in as opposed to lying flat. The gaps may also become noticeably uneven.

FINISHING EACH ROW

When you get close to the first bead you added in each circular row, only add another bead if it can comfortably fit. I strongly advise against trying to squeeze a bead in. This will cause the beads to bulge, which looks much worse than a little gap. You may think the gap is too big, but once you connect the first and last beads, the gap will shrink considerably. Below are a few examples.

OUTER EDGING

In the tutorial, I discuss using the 2nd or 3rd thread bridge when adding the outer edge of fire-polish beads. Some trial and error may be required, as discussed in the tutorial. I suggest always trying the 2nd thread bridge, and if it’s too tight, use the 3rd.

SPACE FOR THE THREAD GUARD

You will need to leave space within the outer edging to add the thread guard, which attaches to the ear wire. As I discuss in the tutorial, you will be left with either 1 or 2 thread bridges after adding your last fire-polish bead. This depends on your tension and the spacing of your edging.

The tutorial shows how to finish the row and add the thread guard when you are left with two thread bridges. You will add two delica beads using brick stitch - one for each thread bridge. Then, stitch the delica bead you just added to the first delica bead in the edging row. You will then connect your thread guard to the 2nd and 3rd delica beads between the two fire-polish beads (as shown in the photo below). This exact process is shown in the tutorial.

If you have one thread bridge, you will add one delica bead using brick stitch, and then stitch the delica bead you just added to the first delica bead in the edging row. You will then connect your thread guard to the 1st and 3rd delica beads between the two fire-polish beads (as shown in the photo below).

This scenario is not shown in the tutorial, so you will need to weave through slightly different beads to attach the thread guard and secure it. However, you can follow the diagrams below. If you have questions, please email me at jaime@thebeadmix.com.

TYING OFF THE THREAD

Once you’ve secured the thread guard, you need to tie off the thread. This involves weaving the thread through beads and making a few knots so that when you cut the excess thread, it does not come undone. There are many ways to do this, including a way that does not involve making knots. If you have a way of doing it that works best for you, do it! There is no right or wrong. In the tutorial, I show one way, which is weaving along the outer edge and making knots using the thread bridges of every other fire-polished bead. I go all the way around until I get to the other side. But that’s not necessary. If you feel the thread is secure at any point, you can snip it.

Also, during this step, you can weave the thread to any large gaps that bug you, and weave between the two beads to adjust the gap to make it more uniform in width with the others. You can also weave the thread to any wonky beads and work around them to straighten them out. However, these steps are optional and not necessary. In the tutorial, I attempt to straighten out a few beads, but you likely do not need to follow those steps. 

As mentioned above, the main goal of this step is to secure the thread so that when you cut it, it does not come undone. So you’ll need to use your judgement. You may need to weave through different beads than I did at this step. The only trick is to weave between beads that are next to each other or diagonal so that you don’t see the thread. The diagram below illustrates this concept.

Video Tutorial

For beginners with no or minimal experience with brick stitch and bead weaving, I recommend watching the tutorial from start to finish. It is long, but it’s thorough!

Need Help?

You are not alone in this process! If you need help at any point, please don’t hesitate to reach out. I’m always happy to help! Email me at jaime@thebeadmix.com and I will get back to you as quickly as possible.

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